It's a battle that's best avoiding. Look for young plants that are vibrant and well spaced out and feel the pot to ensure they are not root bound hard pots means a tangle of roots; soft pots means they are growing more freely. Our biggest concern is for the welfare of the seedling when transplanting.
You have to realize that these guys have spent the former months of their lives in a cosy greenhouse and now they come face to face with their reality. Make it a pleasant transition by watering in any seedlings 10 minutes before transplanting. They are no doubt thirsty, tired and worried; this will make the process far more comfortable.
Now vibrant and enthused, it's transplanting time! Don't fall into the trap of many green gardeners and plant them all together - this is the one big chance to realize their potential and they won't if everyone's stepping on each other's toes. Work out the necessary spacing for the variety you are planting and go about separating the individual seedlings. When faced with a rectangular punnet the challenge of separation is a more organized one.
Once you know the date, work backward from there. Seed packets and other online information will guide you in how many weeks before the last expected frost to sow seeds indoors. For example, tomatoes take about eight weeks from sowing to planting outside after the last risk of frost has passed. Assume that date is April You would sow seeds indoors around February Then around March 15, as Craig does, transplant them to a larger container for the remaining month.
By April 15 they are ready to be planted safely in the ground. Starting your seeds in peat pots formed from peat moss offers you the chance to skip the transplanting step. Sometimes peat pots take longer to dissolve so you may want to peel away some of the peat, especially for any exposed material above the soil surface to prevent wicking moisture from the soil. Soil blocks are an efficient way to grow out seeds without the use of plastic or extra casing.
The added benefit is no transplant shock. Eliot Coleman uses soil blocks for all his seed starting. Watch the episode of this scene. Link below. Soil Blocks are a compressed or formed cube, made from a soil medium typically consisting of a sterile mix and compost.
Well-known organic farmer, Eliot Coleman is a huge fan of using soil blocks for all his indoor seed starting. We filmed an episode with Eliot for our television series where you can watch him working with soil blocks in his greenhouse. A mechanical mold takes a damp soil mix and forms it into a plantable cube. You can pack many of these molds in a tray. When the seedling is ready to plant outdoors, place it directly into the garden and it quickly takes root with no risk of transplant shock.
I also include an entire section to soil blocks in my online gardening course, Master Seed Starting. I share videos on how to mix the block medium and how the blocks are designed to make transplanting really easy.
Some seeds will germinate faster if you soak them before planting, but no longer than 24 hours to prevent rot. This applies to hard-coated seeds like morning glories, chard, beets, and okra. Refer to the back of the seed packet for information about which varieties to pre-soak. The following example is what Craig uses for growing out tomato seedlings. But this technique works well for many varieties of edibles and flowers too. A single layer of plastic wrap draped over seed trays is an efficient and inexpensive way to trap moisture until seeds germinate.
Heat mats placed under the trays aid in rapid germination. During germination seed trays or containers resting on heat mats are located near a window and for a few weeks after that. This is the time Craig moves them under lights. Craig uses shop lights watt fluorescent bulbs in his garage on a table for his sole source of supplemental lighting.
The trays are placed on the table, and the lights are lowered to within about an inch of the seedlings. Now, the vertical growth begins to slow, and the root growth is encouraged. Direct sun is always better than artificial light. As soon as you are able weather permitting , the sooner you can gradually expose the seedlings to direct sunlight the better. This process is called hardening off. If the media i. Some seeds require light to germinate, while others require darkness.
Some seeds have no preference at all. Look in catalogs and seed packets for specific information for the seeds being grown. If a seed requires light for germination, sow the seeds on the soil surface.
If a seed requires darkness, cover it lightly with a layer of fine peat moss or vermiculite. Temperature affects the number of seeds that germinate as well as how fast the seeds germinate. Some seeds have a very specific temperature range for germination, while others will germinate over a broad range of temperatures. Seed packets and catalogs generally list the optimum temperature for germination. A good rule of thumb is 65 to 75 degrees F for germinating most seeds.
To monitor soil or media temperature, use a thermometer with its probe in the middle of the container or flat. To raise temperature, use moisture-proof heating mats or cables under flats or containers following manufacturer's instructions.
Alternately, flats can be placed in warm spots in the home, such as near a radiator, for the germination process. Then move the seedlings to a bright location so they can continue to develop. Monitor temperature and moisture so that embryos and seedlings remain viable.
After germination, temperature should be gradually lowered to 65 degrees F. Choose a sterile, soilless potting media without fertilizer to start seeds. Sterile mixes are free of weed seeds and disease organisms. Weeds compete with the germinating seedlings for water and nutrients, and disease organisms can kill seedlings in the early stages of germination.
Avoid using garden soil as it is heavy, holds a tremendous amount of water, and often contains weed seeds or disease. A good seed-starting media will have a fine, even texture and be fairly uniform. This will help maintain good contact of seed with media. You do not want a seed-starting media that is lumpy or chunky, especially when sowing small seeds Figure 4. There are several sterile, soilless materials from which to choose.
Sand, perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss are readily available and can be mixed together to create a media that has good moisture-holding capacity and good drainage. Sphagnum peat moss is often combined with perlite for a seed-starting media. A good recipe for making your own media includes 4 quarts shredded sphagnum peat moss, 4 quarts fine vermiculite, 1 tablespoons of superphosphate, and 2 tablespoons of ground limestone. Mix thoroughly, then wet completely.
Leave the soil to drain and do not plant for 5 to 6 days. This allows the lime to react with the peat moss and create a favorable environment for the seedlings. Any container can be used for starting seeds as long as it drains, is deep enough for good root development, and is sanitized prior to use Figures 5a, 5b, and 5c.
Plastic inserts, flats, and trays are available for purchase. Rectangular flats and trays are usually 12 to 18 inches long and often come with a clear, fitted dome or cover. You can make your own flats from wood, but they are heavier than plastic flats and are more difficult to sanitize for reuse.
Be sure to leave gaps between the slats, or drill holes in the bottom, for drainage. You can fill the flat directly with media, or use an insert or smaller container set into the flat and filled with media.
Growing seedlings in individual cells or containers reduces damage to roots and shock to the seedling when later transplanted into the garden or another container. You can also make your own containers from recycled materials, such as plastic salad boxes and muffin containers, as long as good drainage is provided and there is adequate depth for root development.
The clear plastic containers are like mini greenhouses. When the lids are closed, an ideal high-humidity environment is created for germinating seeds. As the seedlings emerge and grow, the lid can be gradually opened and removed. Pots can also be made from recycled newspaper using a can or bottle as a form, or soil blocks can be made with an initial investment in a molding device.
Additionally, seeds can be started in hydrated peat pellets for easy transplant into the garden Figure 6. For more information on usine peat pellets, view or print the "Starting Plants From Seed using Peat Pellets" information sheet.
Sanitation is critical in the germination process. Disease causing fungi can attack seedlings and kill them at this early stage. To reduce chance of fungal attack, use sterile media and sanitized containers. To sanitize used containers, wash to remove any soil or debris and rinse with a solution of one part chlorine bleach to nine parts water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. Providing appropriate air and media temperatures as well as adequate moisture and humidity is important to seed germination.
Choose a warm location that provides bright, indirect light and good air circulation. For best results, refer to the information on temperature previously mentioned in the section on germination. Seeds can be sown directly into the container or space where they will grow, or they can be transplanted to another container or space to finish growing.
Most seeds are planted at a depth approximately twice their diameter. Very small seeds should be simply pressed gently into the surface of the soil and barely covered. To raise the humidity for the germinating seeds, the container can be covered with plastic wrap or placed in a plastic bag, but remove the bag as soon as germination occurs. Once seeds germinate, you will need to provide supplemental light for proper seedling growth.
Light stands should position the lights within 2 to 3 inches of the seedlings. As the seedlings grow, raise the lights, but keep them 2 to 3 inches above the seedlings. Set a timer so that the lights are on 16 hours daily. As seedlings grow, raise the lights above the plants. Without supplemental light, plants will be weak and spindly, often stretching toward a window or other light source.
Not all plants respond well to transplanting, and for some crops, such as beans, transplanting does not offer benefit enough to pursue. Most large-seeded plants, such as corn and pumpkin, and root crops, such as carrots and beets, are best direct-seeded. Sow seeds directly into the container or place where they will grow, following the recommended seeding depth on the package. Species with small seeds can be more challenging to handle. Carefully prepare the seed bed so that it is smooth and even, and pay close attention during germination and initial growth of the seedlings.
Some seeds are started in a seed bed, transplanted to a secondary container for growth and development, and then transplanted to the container or place where they will grow and finish their life cycle. For example, tomatoes are germinated, transplanted to a flat, grown out for several weeks, and then planted in the garden after last frost.
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